I am very sorry to say that this is going to be my last blog as I will be leaving the expedition before the summit push.
As you know, we recently spent some time down the valley in Pheriche, but unfortunately it has not had the desired effect for me as I have not managed to regain the strength I lost on the mountain and I just have to recognise that in my current state of health I am just not strong enough to climb the mountain. The walk back up to BC only confirmed this, as it actually took me longer than when we first trekked in a month ago. I could maybe struggle up as far as C2, but from my previous experiences up there the prognosis for summit would not be good.
Also, another factor has now come in to play in that the stakes in the icefall have been raised by the death of a sherpa in an avalanche, and speed through there is now even more essential. I would not be able to move at the required speed and to go in there would be endangering not only myself, but also those with me.
I wouldn't say that the last 6 weeks or so have been the most enjoyable of my life, but I am certainly glad for what has been a truly amazing experience - it was worth it just to walk in the Western Cwm. I guess whatever the 'it' is that it takes to climb Everest, I just haven't got it, but at least I have given it a go and I won't spend the rest of my life wondering 'what if'.
I will set off back to Kathmandu in the next couple of days, and then it will just be a question of when I can get a flight back to the UK.
Before I sign off, I'd like to say a huge thank you to everyone who has followed my progress, and especially to those who have posted comments or sent emails. You can't begin to imagine the boost that these have given me when things have been tough. I'm just sorry I couldn't give you a summit to celebrate.
Thanks again, and I'll see you all soon.
Pete
Tuesday 12 May 2009
Wednesday 6 May 2009
OFF TO PHERICHE - AT LAST!!
We're finally off to Pheriche today after a few delays!
I'm feeling a lot better for my few days at BC and looking forward to a few days of relative comfort and warmth down the valley.
I've spoken with Adele about future plans and she agrees that going up again for another acclimatisation trip would probably be counter-productive, so we're going to go with what we have got. It's been agreed that I will be given a time limit for reaching each camp, and if I don't make it within the limit then I will not go any higher.
I'm not sure about internet access at Pheriche so I'll probably catch up with you after the weekend.
I'm feeling a lot better for my few days at BC and looking forward to a few days of relative comfort and warmth down the valley.
I've spoken with Adele about future plans and she agrees that going up again for another acclimatisation trip would probably be counter-productive, so we're going to go with what we have got. It's been agreed that I will be given a time limit for reaching each camp, and if I don't make it within the limit then I will not go any higher.
I'm not sure about internet access at Pheriche so I'll probably catch up with you after the weekend.
Monday 4 May 2009
FEELING BETTER!!
My last message was a bit downbeat, so I thought I would just let you know that I am now feeling a lot better, I've got my appetite back and I'm packing in the calories.
I'm still at BC, mainly because the chef from the Summit hotel in Kathmandu is also here and cooking for us and the food is fantastic!! The rest of the team will be back at BC tomorrow, so we will probably all head down to Pheriche the day after - and Graham the chef will be accompanying us!
I'm still not sure about the future plans for me, as Adele the leader is still up the hill, but as far as I am concerned I have now finished my acclimatisation and I just now want to go for the summit push. There are two main reasons for this: firstly, if I was to go on another acclimatisation cycle, this would not only put me way behind the other members in terms of timescales, but the same problems may occur as I would have to spend at least 4 days at C2. However the other reason is that I don't think I am mentally prepared to make an extra trip through the icefall. At first the icefall was a bit of an adventure playground, with the ladders and everything, but I now know that it is an unpredictable and dangerous place which will catch out the unwary and the weary.
So, it's now just a question (subject to agreement!!) of resting and waiting for the off for the summit push. At the moment, the best estimate is that we will leave for the summit push on 12th May, with summit day itself pencilled in as 16th May. As for my incomplete acclimatisation, I'll just keep going until I can't go any further or someone tells me it's time to turn around.
I'll give you an update from Pheriche in a couple of days.
I'm still at BC, mainly because the chef from the Summit hotel in Kathmandu is also here and cooking for us and the food is fantastic!! The rest of the team will be back at BC tomorrow, so we will probably all head down to Pheriche the day after - and Graham the chef will be accompanying us!
I'm still not sure about the future plans for me, as Adele the leader is still up the hill, but as far as I am concerned I have now finished my acclimatisation and I just now want to go for the summit push. There are two main reasons for this: firstly, if I was to go on another acclimatisation cycle, this would not only put me way behind the other members in terms of timescales, but the same problems may occur as I would have to spend at least 4 days at C2. However the other reason is that I don't think I am mentally prepared to make an extra trip through the icefall. At first the icefall was a bit of an adventure playground, with the ladders and everything, but I now know that it is an unpredictable and dangerous place which will catch out the unwary and the weary.
So, it's now just a question (subject to agreement!!) of resting and waiting for the off for the summit push. At the moment, the best estimate is that we will leave for the summit push on 12th May, with summit day itself pencilled in as 16th May. As for my incomplete acclimatisation, I'll just keep going until I can't go any further or someone tells me it's time to turn around.
I'll give you an update from Pheriche in a couple of days.
Friday 1 May 2009
A SETBACK
Unfortunately I have had to return early to base camp from the latest acclimatisation trip. Basically my body did not adapt well to living continuously at 6,400m and I was suffering from lack of sleep, nausea and loss of appetite. It came to a head when we attempted to reach C3 up the Lhotse Face, and it became apparent before we had even reached half way that I was suffering and that the only option was for me to turn back.
The basic problem is that I could not take in enough food to convert to energy and I was literally 'running on empty'. The problem was not going to solve itself while I stayed at C2, as all that was happening was that my body was deteriorating more all the time I stayed up there. The decision was taken therefore for me to get back to Base camp asap and start trying to put some calories back into my body - it is working so far because I have already demolished a big plate of chips single-handed!
The question remains about where do we go from here. In the short term, I will head down to Pheriche and wait there for the rest of the team to arrive, all the time trying to eat as much as possible. I will then discuss the future plans with the expedition leaders, although it is difficult to see how we can overcome the problems I experienced at C2 if these are physiological. However, I am determined that this is only a temporary setback and I will be back up that hill as soon as possible.
The basic problem is that I could not take in enough food to convert to energy and I was literally 'running on empty'. The problem was not going to solve itself while I stayed at C2, as all that was happening was that my body was deteriorating more all the time I stayed up there. The decision was taken therefore for me to get back to Base camp asap and start trying to put some calories back into my body - it is working so far because I have already demolished a big plate of chips single-handed!
The question remains about where do we go from here. In the short term, I will head down to Pheriche and wait there for the rest of the team to arrive, all the time trying to eat as much as possible. I will then discuss the future plans with the expedition leaders, although it is difficult to see how we can overcome the problems I experienced at C2 if these are physiological. However, I am determined that this is only a temporary setback and I will be back up that hill as soon as possible.
Monday 27 April 2009
UP WE GO AGAIN
Apologies for the delay in the last posting but we have again been having IT problems at 5,300m!
It's now Sunday afternoon and at 4am tomorrow we will begin our final acclimatisation climb before the summit push. Due to illness and other factors, the group is now running on three different programmes, but for me the plan is that I will go straight through to C2 tomorrow, spend a couple of rest days there and then go up the Lhotse Face to 'touch' C3 at 7,300m before retuning to C2 to sleep. During this climb up to C3 I will break my own personal altitude record of 6,962m, although I don't think I will be in the mood for much celebrating!
After another couple of days rest at C2, I will again go up to C3, this time to sleep, on oxygen. The following day I will return to C2, and then the day after that, all the way back to basecamp. All being well, I should be back at basecamp on 4th May. This will then be the end of the acclimatisation phase and the team as a whole will then move right down the valley, dropping some 1,300m to rest up and feed up at Pheriche and wait for the weather window which begins the great rush for the summit.
The mountain is already 'fixed' as far as the South Col, and the rumour around BC is that the first summit attempts, from some of the smallet teams, will be on or around 3rd May. This is very early, but the weather this year, so far, has been very benign and it has been possible to get the mountain 'in condition' much quicker than usual. Jagged Globe and the other large teams try to reach agreements as to when they will go for the summit in order to avoid long queues at the Hillary Step, and my guess (not backed by any information!) is that we will summit between 15th and 20th May.
As for myself, I'm feeling good and ready for the off. I'll be incommunicado obviously until 4th May, but you can follow progress at www.jagged-globe.com
It's now Sunday afternoon and at 4am tomorrow we will begin our final acclimatisation climb before the summit push. Due to illness and other factors, the group is now running on three different programmes, but for me the plan is that I will go straight through to C2 tomorrow, spend a couple of rest days there and then go up the Lhotse Face to 'touch' C3 at 7,300m before retuning to C2 to sleep. During this climb up to C3 I will break my own personal altitude record of 6,962m, although I don't think I will be in the mood for much celebrating!
After another couple of days rest at C2, I will again go up to C3, this time to sleep, on oxygen. The following day I will return to C2, and then the day after that, all the way back to basecamp. All being well, I should be back at basecamp on 4th May. This will then be the end of the acclimatisation phase and the team as a whole will then move right down the valley, dropping some 1,300m to rest up and feed up at Pheriche and wait for the weather window which begins the great rush for the summit.
The mountain is already 'fixed' as far as the South Col, and the rumour around BC is that the first summit attempts, from some of the smallet teams, will be on or around 3rd May. This is very early, but the weather this year, so far, has been very benign and it has been possible to get the mountain 'in condition' much quicker than usual. Jagged Globe and the other large teams try to reach agreements as to when they will go for the summit in order to avoid long queues at the Hillary Step, and my guess (not backed by any information!) is that we will summit between 15th and 20th May.
As for myself, I'm feeling good and ready for the off. I'll be incommunicado obviously until 4th May, but you can follow progress at www.jagged-globe.com
RETURN TO BASECAMP
After an exhausting few days up the mountain we are now back and resting at basecamp before commencing our next sequence of acclimatisation.
We left basecamp on Monday morning to climb yet again through the icefall, this time going all the way to camp 1. However, the difference from previous forays was that this time we were carrying big packs filled with our high altitude gear, which made the climb much tougher, and we arrived at C1 quite tired. Also, the basecamp comforts were left far behind and we were each given a two man tent to share, a stove, a bag of snow to melt and a bag of rations, and left to get on with it!
Still, I survived the night 'sleeping' at 6,100m (a new record for me), and the next morning we left at 6.00am to climb to C2. The journey up to C2 is through the Western Cwm, which is reputedly some of the most spectacular scenary in the world, but I must confess that I spent the whole trip just staring at the boots of the person ahead of me! After a quick drink and bite to eat at C2, we returned to C1 for the night. The journey back was a little easier, and I did get a chance to look around me, and it was the most sensational scenery, with the Nuptse Ridge on one side and the Everest West Wall on the other, both towering 2km above us. We also got out first close up look at the Lhotse Face, which s the next phase of the climb - gulp!!!
Next day we again rose early to climb to C2, this time to stay the night. C2 is a little more hospitable than C1, and it has a cook tent and a mess tent which means you don't have to spend all your time cramped in your owned shared personal tent.
After a very rough night at another new personal altitude sleeping record of 6,400m, we returned yesterday all the way to basecamp.
We now have a couple of rest days untilwe find out what the next acclimatisation phase will comprise, bt it will probably be at least 6 nights at C2 or above including a night at C3 (7,200m).
Healthwise, I picked up a dreadful cough up the hill, and yesterday I went to see the basecamp medics, who have given me a Salbutamol inhaler which seems to have done the trick.
So now it's 2 or more days of rehydrating and packing in the calories before out next jaunt.
Bye for now.
We left basecamp on Monday morning to climb yet again through the icefall, this time going all the way to camp 1. However, the difference from previous forays was that this time we were carrying big packs filled with our high altitude gear, which made the climb much tougher, and we arrived at C1 quite tired. Also, the basecamp comforts were left far behind and we were each given a two man tent to share, a stove, a bag of snow to melt and a bag of rations, and left to get on with it!
Still, I survived the night 'sleeping' at 6,100m (a new record for me), and the next morning we left at 6.00am to climb to C2. The journey up to C2 is through the Western Cwm, which is reputedly some of the most spectacular scenary in the world, but I must confess that I spent the whole trip just staring at the boots of the person ahead of me! After a quick drink and bite to eat at C2, we returned to C1 for the night. The journey back was a little easier, and I did get a chance to look around me, and it was the most sensational scenery, with the Nuptse Ridge on one side and the Everest West Wall on the other, both towering 2km above us. We also got out first close up look at the Lhotse Face, which s the next phase of the climb - gulp!!!
Next day we again rose early to climb to C2, this time to stay the night. C2 is a little more hospitable than C1, and it has a cook tent and a mess tent which means you don't have to spend all your time cramped in your owned shared personal tent.
After a very rough night at another new personal altitude sleeping record of 6,400m, we returned yesterday all the way to basecamp.
We now have a couple of rest days untilwe find out what the next acclimatisation phase will comprise, bt it will probably be at least 6 nights at C2 or above including a night at C3 (7,200m).
Healthwise, I picked up a dreadful cough up the hill, and yesterday I went to see the basecamp medics, who have given me a Salbutamol inhaler which seems to have done the trick.
So now it's 2 or more days of rehydrating and packing in the calories before out next jaunt.
Bye for now.
Sunday 19 April 2009
INTO THE ICEFALL - TAKE 2
This morning we made our second trip up the icefall, this time to the top, reaching an altitude of just over 6,000m.
Having been half way up once, we all knew what to expect, although it was made somewhat different this time that the first couple of hours was done in the dark, due to the start time of 3.00am. The second half of the icefall was much the same as the first half, although there was one crevasse that must have been 8 metres wide and we couldn't see the bottom - that was a ladder crossing to get the pulse racing! There was also a stretch of around 100m which passed under a rock and ice shelf which is prone to avalanche, and we were advised to run through that area. I'm afraid that my attempt at running was to plod just a little more energetically! However, one of leaders, Willie Benegas (he's famous, Google him), reckons he has picked out a safer route and the Ice Fall Doctors are up there now pushing it through.
Again, the sun was blazing down as we descended, but I had learned form my previous experience and adjusted my clothing accordingly, so although I was still tired, I wasn't nearly as exhausted as the previous time.
I'm not sure what the programme is for the next couple of days. Tomorrow will definitely be a rest day, and probably Sunday as well. Our next venture up the mountain will be to go through the icefall again, sleep at Camp 1, and then push on up the Western Cwm to touch Camp 2, before retuning again to base camp. I'll let you know how it goes.
Bye for now,
ps COYB for the semi-final!!!
Having been half way up once, we all knew what to expect, although it was made somewhat different this time that the first couple of hours was done in the dark, due to the start time of 3.00am. The second half of the icefall was much the same as the first half, although there was one crevasse that must have been 8 metres wide and we couldn't see the bottom - that was a ladder crossing to get the pulse racing! There was also a stretch of around 100m which passed under a rock and ice shelf which is prone to avalanche, and we were advised to run through that area. I'm afraid that my attempt at running was to plod just a little more energetically! However, one of leaders, Willie Benegas (he's famous, Google him), reckons he has picked out a safer route and the Ice Fall Doctors are up there now pushing it through.
Again, the sun was blazing down as we descended, but I had learned form my previous experience and adjusted my clothing accordingly, so although I was still tired, I wasn't nearly as exhausted as the previous time.
I'm not sure what the programme is for the next couple of days. Tomorrow will definitely be a rest day, and probably Sunday as well. Our next venture up the mountain will be to go through the icefall again, sleep at Camp 1, and then push on up the Western Cwm to touch Camp 2, before retuning again to base camp. I'll let you know how it goes.
Bye for now,
ps COYB for the semi-final!!!
Wednesday 15 April 2009
INTO THE ICEFALL
Yesterday we made our first trip into the much-feared Khumbu Icefall and all came out again to tell the tale.
The icefall is the head of the Khumbu glacier and from basecamp looks like an impenetrable jumble of ice and crevasses rising 600m and blocking the access to the Western Cym. However, every year a team of Sherpas called the Icefall Doctors go in and mark out a safe route.
So at 6.00am yesterday we headed in... Actually, it was a lot less scary than I had expected. Although we clipped in to the fixed rope that the doctors had set up, there were very few places where the route was at all exposed and it was mostly straightforward, if sometimes steep, walking. We did have to cross 8 or 9 ladders over crevasses, and this was daunting the first 2 or 3 times, but even this became fairly routine.
As pre-agreed, we went up to around 5,700m, just over half way, and then turned around. On the way back however the sun had hit the icefall, and combined with the lack of wind and reflection from the ice, turned it into a furnace. The fact that I was wearing boots designed to keep my feet warm at -40 degrees didn't help, and I got back to camp quite exhausted and dehydrated. However, an afternoon of resting and drinking tea soon revived me.
Today was a semi-rest day so this morning I took a shower and a shave, and this afternoon we have been sorting out rations for the high camps. Tomorrow is a full rest day, then Friday we will be up at 2.00am for a 3.00am start to climb the complete icefall, 'touch' camp 1 and then return to basecamp.
Before I go, a huge thank you to everyone who has commented on the blog and sent emails. Time in the comms tent is always in great demand, so I can't reply individually, but please please please keep them coming because you can't imagine how great it is to receive messages from home. In case you have forgotten, my email address at basecamp is pbrowne@jaggedglobe.uuplus.net - please don't be shy in emailing me.
Bye for now,
The icefall is the head of the Khumbu glacier and from basecamp looks like an impenetrable jumble of ice and crevasses rising 600m and blocking the access to the Western Cym. However, every year a team of Sherpas called the Icefall Doctors go in and mark out a safe route.
So at 6.00am yesterday we headed in... Actually, it was a lot less scary than I had expected. Although we clipped in to the fixed rope that the doctors had set up, there were very few places where the route was at all exposed and it was mostly straightforward, if sometimes steep, walking. We did have to cross 8 or 9 ladders over crevasses, and this was daunting the first 2 or 3 times, but even this became fairly routine.
As pre-agreed, we went up to around 5,700m, just over half way, and then turned around. On the way back however the sun had hit the icefall, and combined with the lack of wind and reflection from the ice, turned it into a furnace. The fact that I was wearing boots designed to keep my feet warm at -40 degrees didn't help, and I got back to camp quite exhausted and dehydrated. However, an afternoon of resting and drinking tea soon revived me.
Today was a semi-rest day so this morning I took a shower and a shave, and this afternoon we have been sorting out rations for the high camps. Tomorrow is a full rest day, then Friday we will be up at 2.00am for a 3.00am start to climb the complete icefall, 'touch' camp 1 and then return to basecamp.
Before I go, a huge thank you to everyone who has commented on the blog and sent emails. Time in the comms tent is always in great demand, so I can't reply individually, but please please please keep them coming because you can't imagine how great it is to receive messages from home. In case you have forgotten, my email address at basecamp is pbrowne@jaggedglobe.uuplus.net - please don't be shy in emailing me.
Bye for now,
Tuesday 14 April 2009
At Basecamp
Apologies for the delay in updating but there were a few hiccups in setting up the basecamp comms tent. However, I am now here and settled into my tent, my new home from home for the next 6-7 weeks.
So, we left Dingboche on Thursday last week and trekked to Lobuche, then next day to Gorak Shep were I had my first dose of ill health. The bit of a cold I had developed into something a little more serious and my sinuses were totally blocked - not good at 5,000m were breathing is difficult at the best of times! However, after a bad night and a lot of sudafed I was ok to travel up to basecamp the next day.
We arrived around midday on Saturday and spent the next day and a half just getting used to our new surroundings and also doing even more washing of myself and clothes. However, I've decided that shaving is a real chore up here and I'm contemplating giving it up until I get home - only contemplating at the moment!
Basecamp is very comfortable. I have a 5 man tent to myself so there's plenty of space for all my stuff, and we have a very nice mess tent with all home comforts including a DVD player.
Yesterday morning we had a Puja ceremony, were we ask for the permission of the gods to enter onto the mountain. This basically consisted of sitting cross-legged for about an hour while a lama incanted prayers and then throwing rice around, smearing each other with flour and drinking the local hooch.
Then this morning the real business began and we went onto the glacier to practice crossing crevasses on ladders, abseiling and other techniques. Tomorrow morning at 6.00 we will make our first venture into the icefall proper. Quite daunting, but I am glad to be finally getting the real business underway.
Bye for now, I'll update you as to how I got on in a few days.
So, we left Dingboche on Thursday last week and trekked to Lobuche, then next day to Gorak Shep were I had my first dose of ill health. The bit of a cold I had developed into something a little more serious and my sinuses were totally blocked - not good at 5,000m were breathing is difficult at the best of times! However, after a bad night and a lot of sudafed I was ok to travel up to basecamp the next day.
We arrived around midday on Saturday and spent the next day and a half just getting used to our new surroundings and also doing even more washing of myself and clothes. However, I've decided that shaving is a real chore up here and I'm contemplating giving it up until I get home - only contemplating at the moment!
Basecamp is very comfortable. I have a 5 man tent to myself so there's plenty of space for all my stuff, and we have a very nice mess tent with all home comforts including a DVD player.
Yesterday morning we had a Puja ceremony, were we ask for the permission of the gods to enter onto the mountain. This basically consisted of sitting cross-legged for about an hour while a lama incanted prayers and then throwing rice around, smearing each other with flour and drinking the local hooch.
Then this morning the real business began and we went onto the glacier to practice crossing crevasses on ladders, abseiling and other techniques. Tomorrow morning at 6.00 we will make our first venture into the icefall proper. Quite daunting, but I am glad to be finally getting the real business underway.
Bye for now, I'll update you as to how I got on in a few days.
Wednesday 8 April 2009
Ready to Move On
We have now almost completed our acclimatisation stay at Dingboche and tomorrow we will continue up the trail to base camp.
On Monday we hiked up a hill behind Dingboche. The ascent was around 700m which took us over 5,000m for the first time. In the afternoon a few of us walked over to Pheriche to visit the Himalayan Rescue Association hospital and attend a lecture on Acute Mountain Sickness. I also took a pulse oxymeter test which showed my pulse to be 67 and my oxygen saturation as 92%. Basically this is good and means that I am acclimatising well.
Yesterday I took a rest day and apart from going to the shop to buy Coke and Mars Bars I spent the day doing admin things, washing some clothes, having a shave and loosing at cards.
This morning some of us took a hike up to Chukkung for a cup of tea, putting another 300m on the acclimatisation clock. Tonight we have a special event - a pub quiz with the prize of a toblarone.
Generally my health continues to be good, although I am sufffering from a bit of a cold at the moment. I also had a few 'gastric problems', but they have now dried up - sorry, cleared up!
So tomorrow we will head of to Lobuche. I'm not sure about internet access for the next two stops, so my next post may well be from base camp, where we should arrive on Saturday.
I hope everyone at home is well. The only news I have had from home is that Everton beat Wigan 4 - 0 on Saturday. COYB!!
Bye for now
On Monday we hiked up a hill behind Dingboche. The ascent was around 700m which took us over 5,000m for the first time. In the afternoon a few of us walked over to Pheriche to visit the Himalayan Rescue Association hospital and attend a lecture on Acute Mountain Sickness. I also took a pulse oxymeter test which showed my pulse to be 67 and my oxygen saturation as 92%. Basically this is good and means that I am acclimatising well.
Yesterday I took a rest day and apart from going to the shop to buy Coke and Mars Bars I spent the day doing admin things, washing some clothes, having a shave and loosing at cards.
This morning some of us took a hike up to Chukkung for a cup of tea, putting another 300m on the acclimatisation clock. Tonight we have a special event - a pub quiz with the prize of a toblarone.
Generally my health continues to be good, although I am sufffering from a bit of a cold at the moment. I also had a few 'gastric problems', but they have now dried up - sorry, cleared up!
So tomorrow we will head of to Lobuche. I'm not sure about internet access for the next two stops, so my next post may well be from base camp, where we should arrive on Saturday.
I hope everyone at home is well. The only news I have had from home is that Everton beat Wigan 4 - 0 on Saturday. COYB!!
Bye for now
Sunday 5 April 2009
At Dingboche
Just a quick one as this is costing a lot!!
Arrived at Dingboche today afetr two good days from Namche. On Friday we walked to Deboche, where we shared a lodge with an American film crew making a documentary; the crew included Ed Viesters (quite a famous mountaineering film maker) and also Dave Hard, the guy who discovered George Mallory's body. Yesterday, we trekked up to Pangboche via Ama Dablam basecamp, which was a tough but very satisfying day.
We are now going to spend four days at Dingboche doing acclimatisation walks before we carry on up the valley towards basecamp.
I'm still feeling great and so far I've sufffered no ill effects.
I'll blog again before we leave Dingboche.
Arrived at Dingboche today afetr two good days from Namche. On Friday we walked to Deboche, where we shared a lodge with an American film crew making a documentary; the crew included Ed Viesters (quite a famous mountaineering film maker) and also Dave Hard, the guy who discovered George Mallory's body. Yesterday, we trekked up to Pangboche via Ama Dablam basecamp, which was a tough but very satisfying day.
We are now going to spend four days at Dingboche doing acclimatisation walks before we carry on up the valley towards basecamp.
I'm still feeling great and so far I've sufffered no ill effects.
I'll blog again before we leave Dingboche.
Thursday 2 April 2009
At Namche
We have now made it up the valley as far as Namche Bazaar. Everyone is in good health and feeling fit, although the altitude of 3,850m does cause a little bit of breathlessness when doing any sort of exertion, such as standing up!
In keeping with the rest of the trip so far, the journey to Lukla was smoooth and trouble free; we passed serenely through all the chaos at the airport and the flight itself was fantastic. The views of the mountains were the clearest I have ever experienced and even the landing was trauma-free! From there it was a quick cup of tea and then we were on the trail.
The first days trekking up the base camp trail is very pleasant, involving mostly downhill walking and we ended the day at a place called Phakding, 200m below Lukla, in what can only be described as luxury lodges - en-suite flushing toilets and how showers on demand. Believe me it will get tougher, honestly! The next day (i.e. yesterday) was a bit more of a test, involving an ascent of around 800m up to Namche, the real sting being that 600m of that ascent comes in the last kilometre and a bit, and it was very hot, so we arrived at Namche feeling a little bit hot and sticky - luckily the lodge here also has hot showers on demand, although not en-suite!! (I have drafted my letter of complaint to Jagged Globe already).
Today was billed as a 'rest day' but this morning we took a hike up to the Everest View Hotel for tea on the terrace and fantastic views of, you guessed it, Everest. We are staying in Namche again tonight and then tomorrow we will be off again.
As for me, I'm feeling great; legs and lungs (and digestive system!) are all working properly - long may it stay that way.
Before I go, I'd just like to say happy birthday for yesterday to my sister Angie. I would have sent a card, but I will probably get home before it does!!
Bye for now.
In keeping with the rest of the trip so far, the journey to Lukla was smoooth and trouble free; we passed serenely through all the chaos at the airport and the flight itself was fantastic. The views of the mountains were the clearest I have ever experienced and even the landing was trauma-free! From there it was a quick cup of tea and then we were on the trail.
The first days trekking up the base camp trail is very pleasant, involving mostly downhill walking and we ended the day at a place called Phakding, 200m below Lukla, in what can only be described as luxury lodges - en-suite flushing toilets and how showers on demand. Believe me it will get tougher, honestly! The next day (i.e. yesterday) was a bit more of a test, involving an ascent of around 800m up to Namche, the real sting being that 600m of that ascent comes in the last kilometre and a bit, and it was very hot, so we arrived at Namche feeling a little bit hot and sticky - luckily the lodge here also has hot showers on demand, although not en-suite!! (I have drafted my letter of complaint to Jagged Globe already).
Today was billed as a 'rest day' but this morning we took a hike up to the Everest View Hotel for tea on the terrace and fantastic views of, you guessed it, Everest. We are staying in Namche again tonight and then tomorrow we will be off again.
As for me, I'm feeling great; legs and lungs (and digestive system!) are all working properly - long may it stay that way.
Before I go, I'd just like to say happy birthday for yesterday to my sister Angie. I would have sent a card, but I will probably get home before it does!!
Bye for now.
Monday 30 March 2009
Greetings from Kathmandu (KTM)
Well, I've made it this far! I met up with most of the rest of the team at Heathrow and we arrived in KTM yesterday at around 3.30pm after a pleasingly uneventful flight via Delhi. We're staying at the Summit hotel, which I've stayed at before, and which is a very pleasant and peaceful oasis away from the noise and general chaos of the city centre.
To my surprise, we have got a full day in KTM before leaving for the hills tomorrow. So instead of the expected 4am alarm call to get to the airport for our flight to Lukla, I instead had a wondeful 9 hours sleep followed by a leisurely breakfast on the terrace. After breakfast we had a lecture from the guy who invented the oxygen system we're going to be using on the mountain, followed by a full gear check. Some of the group have gone into town to stock up on a few essentials, but I'm just going to have a quiet day sitting in the sun at the hotel.
So that's it really, all very boring and unexciting (although at least I didn't go into detail about what I had for breakfast!). Tomorrow is when that 4am call will come, and that is when the big adventure will really start.
Catch you soon!!
To my surprise, we have got a full day in KTM before leaving for the hills tomorrow. So instead of the expected 4am alarm call to get to the airport for our flight to Lukla, I instead had a wondeful 9 hours sleep followed by a leisurely breakfast on the terrace. After breakfast we had a lecture from the guy who invented the oxygen system we're going to be using on the mountain, followed by a full gear check. Some of the group have gone into town to stock up on a few essentials, but I'm just going to have a quiet day sitting in the sun at the hotel.
So that's it really, all very boring and unexciting (although at least I didn't go into detail about what I had for breakfast!). Tomorrow is when that 4am call will come, and that is when the big adventure will really start.
Catch you soon!!
Thursday 19 March 2009
Ready for the Off
Well, it's just about a week now until I set off on my little adventure. The question that most people ask is 'do you feel nervous', and I'm not sure if it's a good thing or a bad thing that the answer is a resounding No!! - I just feel excited. Don't get me wrong - I have no illusions whatsover about what I am letting myself in for, and just how tough it is going to be. I know that it is going to be the hardest thing that I have ever done, or will ever do, but I feel so well prepared, physically and mentally, that if I don't do it now, I will have lost the chance for ever.
So, on Saturday 28th March I will be flying off to Kathmandu. After the briefest of stays (probably around 12 hours!) we will then fly to Lukla and after a quick cup of tea we'll be on the base camp trail. The trek into base camp will probably take around 15 days, taking it nice and easy and having plenty of rest days and day walks to aid the acclimatisation. Having arrived at at base camp, we will then spend the best part of a month acclimatising, making several trips up the mountain, spending longer and getting higher each time, but always heading back to base camp. After our final acclimatisation climb we will probably head right back down the valley as far as Dingboche for a few days of rest and relative comfort. Only when we are absolutely ready will we head back up the mountain and go for the summit, which we will aim to reach any time between mid- and late-May (it's not possible to be more specific!!).
I'm hoping that with the proliferation of internet access on the trail and at base camp that I will be able to update this blog at regular intervals, except when I am up the mountain of course. So, bye for now then, and the next post I make will probably be from somewhere on the trail.
So, on Saturday 28th March I will be flying off to Kathmandu. After the briefest of stays (probably around 12 hours!) we will then fly to Lukla and after a quick cup of tea we'll be on the base camp trail. The trek into base camp will probably take around 15 days, taking it nice and easy and having plenty of rest days and day walks to aid the acclimatisation. Having arrived at at base camp, we will then spend the best part of a month acclimatising, making several trips up the mountain, spending longer and getting higher each time, but always heading back to base camp. After our final acclimatisation climb we will probably head right back down the valley as far as Dingboche for a few days of rest and relative comfort. Only when we are absolutely ready will we head back up the mountain and go for the summit, which we will aim to reach any time between mid- and late-May (it's not possible to be more specific!!).
I'm hoping that with the proliferation of internet access on the trail and at base camp that I will be able to update this blog at regular intervals, except when I am up the mountain of course. So, bye for now then, and the next post I make will probably be from somewhere on the trail.
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