Apologies for the delay in the last posting but we have again been having IT problems at 5,300m!
It's now Sunday afternoon and at 4am tomorrow we will begin our final acclimatisation climb before the summit push. Due to illness and other factors, the group is now running on three different programmes, but for me the plan is that I will go straight through to C2 tomorrow, spend a couple of rest days there and then go up the Lhotse Face to 'touch' C3 at 7,300m before retuning to C2 to sleep. During this climb up to C3 I will break my own personal altitude record of 6,962m, although I don't think I will be in the mood for much celebrating!
After another couple of days rest at C2, I will again go up to C3, this time to sleep, on oxygen. The following day I will return to C2, and then the day after that, all the way back to basecamp. All being well, I should be back at basecamp on 4th May. This will then be the end of the acclimatisation phase and the team as a whole will then move right down the valley, dropping some 1,300m to rest up and feed up at Pheriche and wait for the weather window which begins the great rush for the summit.
The mountain is already 'fixed' as far as the South Col, and the rumour around BC is that the first summit attempts, from some of the smallet teams, will be on or around 3rd May. This is very early, but the weather this year, so far, has been very benign and it has been possible to get the mountain 'in condition' much quicker than usual. Jagged Globe and the other large teams try to reach agreements as to when they will go for the summit in order to avoid long queues at the Hillary Step, and my guess (not backed by any information!) is that we will summit between 15th and 20th May.
As for myself, I'm feeling good and ready for the off. I'll be incommunicado obviously until 4th May, but you can follow progress at www.jagged-globe.com
Monday 27 April 2009
RETURN TO BASECAMP
After an exhausting few days up the mountain we are now back and resting at basecamp before commencing our next sequence of acclimatisation.
We left basecamp on Monday morning to climb yet again through the icefall, this time going all the way to camp 1. However, the difference from previous forays was that this time we were carrying big packs filled with our high altitude gear, which made the climb much tougher, and we arrived at C1 quite tired. Also, the basecamp comforts were left far behind and we were each given a two man tent to share, a stove, a bag of snow to melt and a bag of rations, and left to get on with it!
Still, I survived the night 'sleeping' at 6,100m (a new record for me), and the next morning we left at 6.00am to climb to C2. The journey up to C2 is through the Western Cwm, which is reputedly some of the most spectacular scenary in the world, but I must confess that I spent the whole trip just staring at the boots of the person ahead of me! After a quick drink and bite to eat at C2, we returned to C1 for the night. The journey back was a little easier, and I did get a chance to look around me, and it was the most sensational scenery, with the Nuptse Ridge on one side and the Everest West Wall on the other, both towering 2km above us. We also got out first close up look at the Lhotse Face, which s the next phase of the climb - gulp!!!
Next day we again rose early to climb to C2, this time to stay the night. C2 is a little more hospitable than C1, and it has a cook tent and a mess tent which means you don't have to spend all your time cramped in your owned shared personal tent.
After a very rough night at another new personal altitude sleeping record of 6,400m, we returned yesterday all the way to basecamp.
We now have a couple of rest days untilwe find out what the next acclimatisation phase will comprise, bt it will probably be at least 6 nights at C2 or above including a night at C3 (7,200m).
Healthwise, I picked up a dreadful cough up the hill, and yesterday I went to see the basecamp medics, who have given me a Salbutamol inhaler which seems to have done the trick.
So now it's 2 or more days of rehydrating and packing in the calories before out next jaunt.
Bye for now.
We left basecamp on Monday morning to climb yet again through the icefall, this time going all the way to camp 1. However, the difference from previous forays was that this time we were carrying big packs filled with our high altitude gear, which made the climb much tougher, and we arrived at C1 quite tired. Also, the basecamp comforts were left far behind and we were each given a two man tent to share, a stove, a bag of snow to melt and a bag of rations, and left to get on with it!
Still, I survived the night 'sleeping' at 6,100m (a new record for me), and the next morning we left at 6.00am to climb to C2. The journey up to C2 is through the Western Cwm, which is reputedly some of the most spectacular scenary in the world, but I must confess that I spent the whole trip just staring at the boots of the person ahead of me! After a quick drink and bite to eat at C2, we returned to C1 for the night. The journey back was a little easier, and I did get a chance to look around me, and it was the most sensational scenery, with the Nuptse Ridge on one side and the Everest West Wall on the other, both towering 2km above us. We also got out first close up look at the Lhotse Face, which s the next phase of the climb - gulp!!!
Next day we again rose early to climb to C2, this time to stay the night. C2 is a little more hospitable than C1, and it has a cook tent and a mess tent which means you don't have to spend all your time cramped in your owned shared personal tent.
After a very rough night at another new personal altitude sleeping record of 6,400m, we returned yesterday all the way to basecamp.
We now have a couple of rest days untilwe find out what the next acclimatisation phase will comprise, bt it will probably be at least 6 nights at C2 or above including a night at C3 (7,200m).
Healthwise, I picked up a dreadful cough up the hill, and yesterday I went to see the basecamp medics, who have given me a Salbutamol inhaler which seems to have done the trick.
So now it's 2 or more days of rehydrating and packing in the calories before out next jaunt.
Bye for now.
Sunday 19 April 2009
INTO THE ICEFALL - TAKE 2
This morning we made our second trip up the icefall, this time to the top, reaching an altitude of just over 6,000m.
Having been half way up once, we all knew what to expect, although it was made somewhat different this time that the first couple of hours was done in the dark, due to the start time of 3.00am. The second half of the icefall was much the same as the first half, although there was one crevasse that must have been 8 metres wide and we couldn't see the bottom - that was a ladder crossing to get the pulse racing! There was also a stretch of around 100m which passed under a rock and ice shelf which is prone to avalanche, and we were advised to run through that area. I'm afraid that my attempt at running was to plod just a little more energetically! However, one of leaders, Willie Benegas (he's famous, Google him), reckons he has picked out a safer route and the Ice Fall Doctors are up there now pushing it through.
Again, the sun was blazing down as we descended, but I had learned form my previous experience and adjusted my clothing accordingly, so although I was still tired, I wasn't nearly as exhausted as the previous time.
I'm not sure what the programme is for the next couple of days. Tomorrow will definitely be a rest day, and probably Sunday as well. Our next venture up the mountain will be to go through the icefall again, sleep at Camp 1, and then push on up the Western Cwm to touch Camp 2, before retuning again to base camp. I'll let you know how it goes.
Bye for now,
ps COYB for the semi-final!!!
Having been half way up once, we all knew what to expect, although it was made somewhat different this time that the first couple of hours was done in the dark, due to the start time of 3.00am. The second half of the icefall was much the same as the first half, although there was one crevasse that must have been 8 metres wide and we couldn't see the bottom - that was a ladder crossing to get the pulse racing! There was also a stretch of around 100m which passed under a rock and ice shelf which is prone to avalanche, and we were advised to run through that area. I'm afraid that my attempt at running was to plod just a little more energetically! However, one of leaders, Willie Benegas (he's famous, Google him), reckons he has picked out a safer route and the Ice Fall Doctors are up there now pushing it through.
Again, the sun was blazing down as we descended, but I had learned form my previous experience and adjusted my clothing accordingly, so although I was still tired, I wasn't nearly as exhausted as the previous time.
I'm not sure what the programme is for the next couple of days. Tomorrow will definitely be a rest day, and probably Sunday as well. Our next venture up the mountain will be to go through the icefall again, sleep at Camp 1, and then push on up the Western Cwm to touch Camp 2, before retuning again to base camp. I'll let you know how it goes.
Bye for now,
ps COYB for the semi-final!!!
Wednesday 15 April 2009
INTO THE ICEFALL
Yesterday we made our first trip into the much-feared Khumbu Icefall and all came out again to tell the tale.
The icefall is the head of the Khumbu glacier and from basecamp looks like an impenetrable jumble of ice and crevasses rising 600m and blocking the access to the Western Cym. However, every year a team of Sherpas called the Icefall Doctors go in and mark out a safe route.
So at 6.00am yesterday we headed in... Actually, it was a lot less scary than I had expected. Although we clipped in to the fixed rope that the doctors had set up, there were very few places where the route was at all exposed and it was mostly straightforward, if sometimes steep, walking. We did have to cross 8 or 9 ladders over crevasses, and this was daunting the first 2 or 3 times, but even this became fairly routine.
As pre-agreed, we went up to around 5,700m, just over half way, and then turned around. On the way back however the sun had hit the icefall, and combined with the lack of wind and reflection from the ice, turned it into a furnace. The fact that I was wearing boots designed to keep my feet warm at -40 degrees didn't help, and I got back to camp quite exhausted and dehydrated. However, an afternoon of resting and drinking tea soon revived me.
Today was a semi-rest day so this morning I took a shower and a shave, and this afternoon we have been sorting out rations for the high camps. Tomorrow is a full rest day, then Friday we will be up at 2.00am for a 3.00am start to climb the complete icefall, 'touch' camp 1 and then return to basecamp.
Before I go, a huge thank you to everyone who has commented on the blog and sent emails. Time in the comms tent is always in great demand, so I can't reply individually, but please please please keep them coming because you can't imagine how great it is to receive messages from home. In case you have forgotten, my email address at basecamp is pbrowne@jaggedglobe.uuplus.net - please don't be shy in emailing me.
Bye for now,
The icefall is the head of the Khumbu glacier and from basecamp looks like an impenetrable jumble of ice and crevasses rising 600m and blocking the access to the Western Cym. However, every year a team of Sherpas called the Icefall Doctors go in and mark out a safe route.
So at 6.00am yesterday we headed in... Actually, it was a lot less scary than I had expected. Although we clipped in to the fixed rope that the doctors had set up, there were very few places where the route was at all exposed and it was mostly straightforward, if sometimes steep, walking. We did have to cross 8 or 9 ladders over crevasses, and this was daunting the first 2 or 3 times, but even this became fairly routine.
As pre-agreed, we went up to around 5,700m, just over half way, and then turned around. On the way back however the sun had hit the icefall, and combined with the lack of wind and reflection from the ice, turned it into a furnace. The fact that I was wearing boots designed to keep my feet warm at -40 degrees didn't help, and I got back to camp quite exhausted and dehydrated. However, an afternoon of resting and drinking tea soon revived me.
Today was a semi-rest day so this morning I took a shower and a shave, and this afternoon we have been sorting out rations for the high camps. Tomorrow is a full rest day, then Friday we will be up at 2.00am for a 3.00am start to climb the complete icefall, 'touch' camp 1 and then return to basecamp.
Before I go, a huge thank you to everyone who has commented on the blog and sent emails. Time in the comms tent is always in great demand, so I can't reply individually, but please please please keep them coming because you can't imagine how great it is to receive messages from home. In case you have forgotten, my email address at basecamp is pbrowne@jaggedglobe.uuplus.net - please don't be shy in emailing me.
Bye for now,
Tuesday 14 April 2009
At Basecamp
Apologies for the delay in updating but there were a few hiccups in setting up the basecamp comms tent. However, I am now here and settled into my tent, my new home from home for the next 6-7 weeks.
So, we left Dingboche on Thursday last week and trekked to Lobuche, then next day to Gorak Shep were I had my first dose of ill health. The bit of a cold I had developed into something a little more serious and my sinuses were totally blocked - not good at 5,000m were breathing is difficult at the best of times! However, after a bad night and a lot of sudafed I was ok to travel up to basecamp the next day.
We arrived around midday on Saturday and spent the next day and a half just getting used to our new surroundings and also doing even more washing of myself and clothes. However, I've decided that shaving is a real chore up here and I'm contemplating giving it up until I get home - only contemplating at the moment!
Basecamp is very comfortable. I have a 5 man tent to myself so there's plenty of space for all my stuff, and we have a very nice mess tent with all home comforts including a DVD player.
Yesterday morning we had a Puja ceremony, were we ask for the permission of the gods to enter onto the mountain. This basically consisted of sitting cross-legged for about an hour while a lama incanted prayers and then throwing rice around, smearing each other with flour and drinking the local hooch.
Then this morning the real business began and we went onto the glacier to practice crossing crevasses on ladders, abseiling and other techniques. Tomorrow morning at 6.00 we will make our first venture into the icefall proper. Quite daunting, but I am glad to be finally getting the real business underway.
Bye for now, I'll update you as to how I got on in a few days.
So, we left Dingboche on Thursday last week and trekked to Lobuche, then next day to Gorak Shep were I had my first dose of ill health. The bit of a cold I had developed into something a little more serious and my sinuses were totally blocked - not good at 5,000m were breathing is difficult at the best of times! However, after a bad night and a lot of sudafed I was ok to travel up to basecamp the next day.
We arrived around midday on Saturday and spent the next day and a half just getting used to our new surroundings and also doing even more washing of myself and clothes. However, I've decided that shaving is a real chore up here and I'm contemplating giving it up until I get home - only contemplating at the moment!
Basecamp is very comfortable. I have a 5 man tent to myself so there's plenty of space for all my stuff, and we have a very nice mess tent with all home comforts including a DVD player.
Yesterday morning we had a Puja ceremony, were we ask for the permission of the gods to enter onto the mountain. This basically consisted of sitting cross-legged for about an hour while a lama incanted prayers and then throwing rice around, smearing each other with flour and drinking the local hooch.
Then this morning the real business began and we went onto the glacier to practice crossing crevasses on ladders, abseiling and other techniques. Tomorrow morning at 6.00 we will make our first venture into the icefall proper. Quite daunting, but I am glad to be finally getting the real business underway.
Bye for now, I'll update you as to how I got on in a few days.
Wednesday 8 April 2009
Ready to Move On
We have now almost completed our acclimatisation stay at Dingboche and tomorrow we will continue up the trail to base camp.
On Monday we hiked up a hill behind Dingboche. The ascent was around 700m which took us over 5,000m for the first time. In the afternoon a few of us walked over to Pheriche to visit the Himalayan Rescue Association hospital and attend a lecture on Acute Mountain Sickness. I also took a pulse oxymeter test which showed my pulse to be 67 and my oxygen saturation as 92%. Basically this is good and means that I am acclimatising well.
Yesterday I took a rest day and apart from going to the shop to buy Coke and Mars Bars I spent the day doing admin things, washing some clothes, having a shave and loosing at cards.
This morning some of us took a hike up to Chukkung for a cup of tea, putting another 300m on the acclimatisation clock. Tonight we have a special event - a pub quiz with the prize of a toblarone.
Generally my health continues to be good, although I am sufffering from a bit of a cold at the moment. I also had a few 'gastric problems', but they have now dried up - sorry, cleared up!
So tomorrow we will head of to Lobuche. I'm not sure about internet access for the next two stops, so my next post may well be from base camp, where we should arrive on Saturday.
I hope everyone at home is well. The only news I have had from home is that Everton beat Wigan 4 - 0 on Saturday. COYB!!
Bye for now
On Monday we hiked up a hill behind Dingboche. The ascent was around 700m which took us over 5,000m for the first time. In the afternoon a few of us walked over to Pheriche to visit the Himalayan Rescue Association hospital and attend a lecture on Acute Mountain Sickness. I also took a pulse oxymeter test which showed my pulse to be 67 and my oxygen saturation as 92%. Basically this is good and means that I am acclimatising well.
Yesterday I took a rest day and apart from going to the shop to buy Coke and Mars Bars I spent the day doing admin things, washing some clothes, having a shave and loosing at cards.
This morning some of us took a hike up to Chukkung for a cup of tea, putting another 300m on the acclimatisation clock. Tonight we have a special event - a pub quiz with the prize of a toblarone.
Generally my health continues to be good, although I am sufffering from a bit of a cold at the moment. I also had a few 'gastric problems', but they have now dried up - sorry, cleared up!
So tomorrow we will head of to Lobuche. I'm not sure about internet access for the next two stops, so my next post may well be from base camp, where we should arrive on Saturday.
I hope everyone at home is well. The only news I have had from home is that Everton beat Wigan 4 - 0 on Saturday. COYB!!
Bye for now
Sunday 5 April 2009
At Dingboche
Just a quick one as this is costing a lot!!
Arrived at Dingboche today afetr two good days from Namche. On Friday we walked to Deboche, where we shared a lodge with an American film crew making a documentary; the crew included Ed Viesters (quite a famous mountaineering film maker) and also Dave Hard, the guy who discovered George Mallory's body. Yesterday, we trekked up to Pangboche via Ama Dablam basecamp, which was a tough but very satisfying day.
We are now going to spend four days at Dingboche doing acclimatisation walks before we carry on up the valley towards basecamp.
I'm still feeling great and so far I've sufffered no ill effects.
I'll blog again before we leave Dingboche.
Arrived at Dingboche today afetr two good days from Namche. On Friday we walked to Deboche, where we shared a lodge with an American film crew making a documentary; the crew included Ed Viesters (quite a famous mountaineering film maker) and also Dave Hard, the guy who discovered George Mallory's body. Yesterday, we trekked up to Pangboche via Ama Dablam basecamp, which was a tough but very satisfying day.
We are now going to spend four days at Dingboche doing acclimatisation walks before we carry on up the valley towards basecamp.
I'm still feeling great and so far I've sufffered no ill effects.
I'll blog again before we leave Dingboche.
Thursday 2 April 2009
At Namche
We have now made it up the valley as far as Namche Bazaar. Everyone is in good health and feeling fit, although the altitude of 3,850m does cause a little bit of breathlessness when doing any sort of exertion, such as standing up!
In keeping with the rest of the trip so far, the journey to Lukla was smoooth and trouble free; we passed serenely through all the chaos at the airport and the flight itself was fantastic. The views of the mountains were the clearest I have ever experienced and even the landing was trauma-free! From there it was a quick cup of tea and then we were on the trail.
The first days trekking up the base camp trail is very pleasant, involving mostly downhill walking and we ended the day at a place called Phakding, 200m below Lukla, in what can only be described as luxury lodges - en-suite flushing toilets and how showers on demand. Believe me it will get tougher, honestly! The next day (i.e. yesterday) was a bit more of a test, involving an ascent of around 800m up to Namche, the real sting being that 600m of that ascent comes in the last kilometre and a bit, and it was very hot, so we arrived at Namche feeling a little bit hot and sticky - luckily the lodge here also has hot showers on demand, although not en-suite!! (I have drafted my letter of complaint to Jagged Globe already).
Today was billed as a 'rest day' but this morning we took a hike up to the Everest View Hotel for tea on the terrace and fantastic views of, you guessed it, Everest. We are staying in Namche again tonight and then tomorrow we will be off again.
As for me, I'm feeling great; legs and lungs (and digestive system!) are all working properly - long may it stay that way.
Before I go, I'd just like to say happy birthday for yesterday to my sister Angie. I would have sent a card, but I will probably get home before it does!!
Bye for now.
In keeping with the rest of the trip so far, the journey to Lukla was smoooth and trouble free; we passed serenely through all the chaos at the airport and the flight itself was fantastic. The views of the mountains were the clearest I have ever experienced and even the landing was trauma-free! From there it was a quick cup of tea and then we were on the trail.
The first days trekking up the base camp trail is very pleasant, involving mostly downhill walking and we ended the day at a place called Phakding, 200m below Lukla, in what can only be described as luxury lodges - en-suite flushing toilets and how showers on demand. Believe me it will get tougher, honestly! The next day (i.e. yesterday) was a bit more of a test, involving an ascent of around 800m up to Namche, the real sting being that 600m of that ascent comes in the last kilometre and a bit, and it was very hot, so we arrived at Namche feeling a little bit hot and sticky - luckily the lodge here also has hot showers on demand, although not en-suite!! (I have drafted my letter of complaint to Jagged Globe already).
Today was billed as a 'rest day' but this morning we took a hike up to the Everest View Hotel for tea on the terrace and fantastic views of, you guessed it, Everest. We are staying in Namche again tonight and then tomorrow we will be off again.
As for me, I'm feeling great; legs and lungs (and digestive system!) are all working properly - long may it stay that way.
Before I go, I'd just like to say happy birthday for yesterday to my sister Angie. I would have sent a card, but I will probably get home before it does!!
Bye for now.
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