I am very sorry to say that this is going to be my last blog as I will be leaving the expedition before the summit push.
As you know, we recently spent some time down the valley in Pheriche, but unfortunately it has not had the desired effect for me as I have not managed to regain the strength I lost on the mountain and I just have to recognise that in my current state of health I am just not strong enough to climb the mountain. The walk back up to BC only confirmed this, as it actually took me longer than when we first trekked in a month ago. I could maybe struggle up as far as C2, but from my previous experiences up there the prognosis for summit would not be good.
Also, another factor has now come in to play in that the stakes in the icefall have been raised by the death of a sherpa in an avalanche, and speed through there is now even more essential. I would not be able to move at the required speed and to go in there would be endangering not only myself, but also those with me.
I wouldn't say that the last 6 weeks or so have been the most enjoyable of my life, but I am certainly glad for what has been a truly amazing experience - it was worth it just to walk in the Western Cwm. I guess whatever the 'it' is that it takes to climb Everest, I just haven't got it, but at least I have given it a go and I won't spend the rest of my life wondering 'what if'.
I will set off back to Kathmandu in the next couple of days, and then it will just be a question of when I can get a flight back to the UK.
Before I sign off, I'd like to say a huge thank you to everyone who has followed my progress, and especially to those who have posted comments or sent emails. You can't begin to imagine the boost that these have given me when things have been tough. I'm just sorry I couldn't give you a summit to celebrate.
Thanks again, and I'll see you all soon.
Pete
Tuesday 12 May 2009
Wednesday 6 May 2009
OFF TO PHERICHE - AT LAST!!
We're finally off to Pheriche today after a few delays!
I'm feeling a lot better for my few days at BC and looking forward to a few days of relative comfort and warmth down the valley.
I've spoken with Adele about future plans and she agrees that going up again for another acclimatisation trip would probably be counter-productive, so we're going to go with what we have got. It's been agreed that I will be given a time limit for reaching each camp, and if I don't make it within the limit then I will not go any higher.
I'm not sure about internet access at Pheriche so I'll probably catch up with you after the weekend.
I'm feeling a lot better for my few days at BC and looking forward to a few days of relative comfort and warmth down the valley.
I've spoken with Adele about future plans and she agrees that going up again for another acclimatisation trip would probably be counter-productive, so we're going to go with what we have got. It's been agreed that I will be given a time limit for reaching each camp, and if I don't make it within the limit then I will not go any higher.
I'm not sure about internet access at Pheriche so I'll probably catch up with you after the weekend.
Monday 4 May 2009
FEELING BETTER!!
My last message was a bit downbeat, so I thought I would just let you know that I am now feeling a lot better, I've got my appetite back and I'm packing in the calories.
I'm still at BC, mainly because the chef from the Summit hotel in Kathmandu is also here and cooking for us and the food is fantastic!! The rest of the team will be back at BC tomorrow, so we will probably all head down to Pheriche the day after - and Graham the chef will be accompanying us!
I'm still not sure about the future plans for me, as Adele the leader is still up the hill, but as far as I am concerned I have now finished my acclimatisation and I just now want to go for the summit push. There are two main reasons for this: firstly, if I was to go on another acclimatisation cycle, this would not only put me way behind the other members in terms of timescales, but the same problems may occur as I would have to spend at least 4 days at C2. However the other reason is that I don't think I am mentally prepared to make an extra trip through the icefall. At first the icefall was a bit of an adventure playground, with the ladders and everything, but I now know that it is an unpredictable and dangerous place which will catch out the unwary and the weary.
So, it's now just a question (subject to agreement!!) of resting and waiting for the off for the summit push. At the moment, the best estimate is that we will leave for the summit push on 12th May, with summit day itself pencilled in as 16th May. As for my incomplete acclimatisation, I'll just keep going until I can't go any further or someone tells me it's time to turn around.
I'll give you an update from Pheriche in a couple of days.
I'm still at BC, mainly because the chef from the Summit hotel in Kathmandu is also here and cooking for us and the food is fantastic!! The rest of the team will be back at BC tomorrow, so we will probably all head down to Pheriche the day after - and Graham the chef will be accompanying us!
I'm still not sure about the future plans for me, as Adele the leader is still up the hill, but as far as I am concerned I have now finished my acclimatisation and I just now want to go for the summit push. There are two main reasons for this: firstly, if I was to go on another acclimatisation cycle, this would not only put me way behind the other members in terms of timescales, but the same problems may occur as I would have to spend at least 4 days at C2. However the other reason is that I don't think I am mentally prepared to make an extra trip through the icefall. At first the icefall was a bit of an adventure playground, with the ladders and everything, but I now know that it is an unpredictable and dangerous place which will catch out the unwary and the weary.
So, it's now just a question (subject to agreement!!) of resting and waiting for the off for the summit push. At the moment, the best estimate is that we will leave for the summit push on 12th May, with summit day itself pencilled in as 16th May. As for my incomplete acclimatisation, I'll just keep going until I can't go any further or someone tells me it's time to turn around.
I'll give you an update from Pheriche in a couple of days.
Friday 1 May 2009
A SETBACK
Unfortunately I have had to return early to base camp from the latest acclimatisation trip. Basically my body did not adapt well to living continuously at 6,400m and I was suffering from lack of sleep, nausea and loss of appetite. It came to a head when we attempted to reach C3 up the Lhotse Face, and it became apparent before we had even reached half way that I was suffering and that the only option was for me to turn back.
The basic problem is that I could not take in enough food to convert to energy and I was literally 'running on empty'. The problem was not going to solve itself while I stayed at C2, as all that was happening was that my body was deteriorating more all the time I stayed up there. The decision was taken therefore for me to get back to Base camp asap and start trying to put some calories back into my body - it is working so far because I have already demolished a big plate of chips single-handed!
The question remains about where do we go from here. In the short term, I will head down to Pheriche and wait there for the rest of the team to arrive, all the time trying to eat as much as possible. I will then discuss the future plans with the expedition leaders, although it is difficult to see how we can overcome the problems I experienced at C2 if these are physiological. However, I am determined that this is only a temporary setback and I will be back up that hill as soon as possible.
The basic problem is that I could not take in enough food to convert to energy and I was literally 'running on empty'. The problem was not going to solve itself while I stayed at C2, as all that was happening was that my body was deteriorating more all the time I stayed up there. The decision was taken therefore for me to get back to Base camp asap and start trying to put some calories back into my body - it is working so far because I have already demolished a big plate of chips single-handed!
The question remains about where do we go from here. In the short term, I will head down to Pheriche and wait there for the rest of the team to arrive, all the time trying to eat as much as possible. I will then discuss the future plans with the expedition leaders, although it is difficult to see how we can overcome the problems I experienced at C2 if these are physiological. However, I am determined that this is only a temporary setback and I will be back up that hill as soon as possible.
Monday 27 April 2009
UP WE GO AGAIN
Apologies for the delay in the last posting but we have again been having IT problems at 5,300m!
It's now Sunday afternoon and at 4am tomorrow we will begin our final acclimatisation climb before the summit push. Due to illness and other factors, the group is now running on three different programmes, but for me the plan is that I will go straight through to C2 tomorrow, spend a couple of rest days there and then go up the Lhotse Face to 'touch' C3 at 7,300m before retuning to C2 to sleep. During this climb up to C3 I will break my own personal altitude record of 6,962m, although I don't think I will be in the mood for much celebrating!
After another couple of days rest at C2, I will again go up to C3, this time to sleep, on oxygen. The following day I will return to C2, and then the day after that, all the way back to basecamp. All being well, I should be back at basecamp on 4th May. This will then be the end of the acclimatisation phase and the team as a whole will then move right down the valley, dropping some 1,300m to rest up and feed up at Pheriche and wait for the weather window which begins the great rush for the summit.
The mountain is already 'fixed' as far as the South Col, and the rumour around BC is that the first summit attempts, from some of the smallet teams, will be on or around 3rd May. This is very early, but the weather this year, so far, has been very benign and it has been possible to get the mountain 'in condition' much quicker than usual. Jagged Globe and the other large teams try to reach agreements as to when they will go for the summit in order to avoid long queues at the Hillary Step, and my guess (not backed by any information!) is that we will summit between 15th and 20th May.
As for myself, I'm feeling good and ready for the off. I'll be incommunicado obviously until 4th May, but you can follow progress at www.jagged-globe.com
It's now Sunday afternoon and at 4am tomorrow we will begin our final acclimatisation climb before the summit push. Due to illness and other factors, the group is now running on three different programmes, but for me the plan is that I will go straight through to C2 tomorrow, spend a couple of rest days there and then go up the Lhotse Face to 'touch' C3 at 7,300m before retuning to C2 to sleep. During this climb up to C3 I will break my own personal altitude record of 6,962m, although I don't think I will be in the mood for much celebrating!
After another couple of days rest at C2, I will again go up to C3, this time to sleep, on oxygen. The following day I will return to C2, and then the day after that, all the way back to basecamp. All being well, I should be back at basecamp on 4th May. This will then be the end of the acclimatisation phase and the team as a whole will then move right down the valley, dropping some 1,300m to rest up and feed up at Pheriche and wait for the weather window which begins the great rush for the summit.
The mountain is already 'fixed' as far as the South Col, and the rumour around BC is that the first summit attempts, from some of the smallet teams, will be on or around 3rd May. This is very early, but the weather this year, so far, has been very benign and it has been possible to get the mountain 'in condition' much quicker than usual. Jagged Globe and the other large teams try to reach agreements as to when they will go for the summit in order to avoid long queues at the Hillary Step, and my guess (not backed by any information!) is that we will summit between 15th and 20th May.
As for myself, I'm feeling good and ready for the off. I'll be incommunicado obviously until 4th May, but you can follow progress at www.jagged-globe.com
RETURN TO BASECAMP
After an exhausting few days up the mountain we are now back and resting at basecamp before commencing our next sequence of acclimatisation.
We left basecamp on Monday morning to climb yet again through the icefall, this time going all the way to camp 1. However, the difference from previous forays was that this time we were carrying big packs filled with our high altitude gear, which made the climb much tougher, and we arrived at C1 quite tired. Also, the basecamp comforts were left far behind and we were each given a two man tent to share, a stove, a bag of snow to melt and a bag of rations, and left to get on with it!
Still, I survived the night 'sleeping' at 6,100m (a new record for me), and the next morning we left at 6.00am to climb to C2. The journey up to C2 is through the Western Cwm, which is reputedly some of the most spectacular scenary in the world, but I must confess that I spent the whole trip just staring at the boots of the person ahead of me! After a quick drink and bite to eat at C2, we returned to C1 for the night. The journey back was a little easier, and I did get a chance to look around me, and it was the most sensational scenery, with the Nuptse Ridge on one side and the Everest West Wall on the other, both towering 2km above us. We also got out first close up look at the Lhotse Face, which s the next phase of the climb - gulp!!!
Next day we again rose early to climb to C2, this time to stay the night. C2 is a little more hospitable than C1, and it has a cook tent and a mess tent which means you don't have to spend all your time cramped in your owned shared personal tent.
After a very rough night at another new personal altitude sleeping record of 6,400m, we returned yesterday all the way to basecamp.
We now have a couple of rest days untilwe find out what the next acclimatisation phase will comprise, bt it will probably be at least 6 nights at C2 or above including a night at C3 (7,200m).
Healthwise, I picked up a dreadful cough up the hill, and yesterday I went to see the basecamp medics, who have given me a Salbutamol inhaler which seems to have done the trick.
So now it's 2 or more days of rehydrating and packing in the calories before out next jaunt.
Bye for now.
We left basecamp on Monday morning to climb yet again through the icefall, this time going all the way to camp 1. However, the difference from previous forays was that this time we were carrying big packs filled with our high altitude gear, which made the climb much tougher, and we arrived at C1 quite tired. Also, the basecamp comforts were left far behind and we were each given a two man tent to share, a stove, a bag of snow to melt and a bag of rations, and left to get on with it!
Still, I survived the night 'sleeping' at 6,100m (a new record for me), and the next morning we left at 6.00am to climb to C2. The journey up to C2 is through the Western Cwm, which is reputedly some of the most spectacular scenary in the world, but I must confess that I spent the whole trip just staring at the boots of the person ahead of me! After a quick drink and bite to eat at C2, we returned to C1 for the night. The journey back was a little easier, and I did get a chance to look around me, and it was the most sensational scenery, with the Nuptse Ridge on one side and the Everest West Wall on the other, both towering 2km above us. We also got out first close up look at the Lhotse Face, which s the next phase of the climb - gulp!!!
Next day we again rose early to climb to C2, this time to stay the night. C2 is a little more hospitable than C1, and it has a cook tent and a mess tent which means you don't have to spend all your time cramped in your owned shared personal tent.
After a very rough night at another new personal altitude sleeping record of 6,400m, we returned yesterday all the way to basecamp.
We now have a couple of rest days untilwe find out what the next acclimatisation phase will comprise, bt it will probably be at least 6 nights at C2 or above including a night at C3 (7,200m).
Healthwise, I picked up a dreadful cough up the hill, and yesterday I went to see the basecamp medics, who have given me a Salbutamol inhaler which seems to have done the trick.
So now it's 2 or more days of rehydrating and packing in the calories before out next jaunt.
Bye for now.
Sunday 19 April 2009
INTO THE ICEFALL - TAKE 2
This morning we made our second trip up the icefall, this time to the top, reaching an altitude of just over 6,000m.
Having been half way up once, we all knew what to expect, although it was made somewhat different this time that the first couple of hours was done in the dark, due to the start time of 3.00am. The second half of the icefall was much the same as the first half, although there was one crevasse that must have been 8 metres wide and we couldn't see the bottom - that was a ladder crossing to get the pulse racing! There was also a stretch of around 100m which passed under a rock and ice shelf which is prone to avalanche, and we were advised to run through that area. I'm afraid that my attempt at running was to plod just a little more energetically! However, one of leaders, Willie Benegas (he's famous, Google him), reckons he has picked out a safer route and the Ice Fall Doctors are up there now pushing it through.
Again, the sun was blazing down as we descended, but I had learned form my previous experience and adjusted my clothing accordingly, so although I was still tired, I wasn't nearly as exhausted as the previous time.
I'm not sure what the programme is for the next couple of days. Tomorrow will definitely be a rest day, and probably Sunday as well. Our next venture up the mountain will be to go through the icefall again, sleep at Camp 1, and then push on up the Western Cwm to touch Camp 2, before retuning again to base camp. I'll let you know how it goes.
Bye for now,
ps COYB for the semi-final!!!
Having been half way up once, we all knew what to expect, although it was made somewhat different this time that the first couple of hours was done in the dark, due to the start time of 3.00am. The second half of the icefall was much the same as the first half, although there was one crevasse that must have been 8 metres wide and we couldn't see the bottom - that was a ladder crossing to get the pulse racing! There was also a stretch of around 100m which passed under a rock and ice shelf which is prone to avalanche, and we were advised to run through that area. I'm afraid that my attempt at running was to plod just a little more energetically! However, one of leaders, Willie Benegas (he's famous, Google him), reckons he has picked out a safer route and the Ice Fall Doctors are up there now pushing it through.
Again, the sun was blazing down as we descended, but I had learned form my previous experience and adjusted my clothing accordingly, so although I was still tired, I wasn't nearly as exhausted as the previous time.
I'm not sure what the programme is for the next couple of days. Tomorrow will definitely be a rest day, and probably Sunday as well. Our next venture up the mountain will be to go through the icefall again, sleep at Camp 1, and then push on up the Western Cwm to touch Camp 2, before retuning again to base camp. I'll let you know how it goes.
Bye for now,
ps COYB for the semi-final!!!
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